The Little Black Dress (L.B.D)
A timeline of style, defined by three words; little black dress. Throughout the years we have seen the style remain, yet the fashion change a considerable amount. Fashions from the past brought back to the present (reworking the past). The little black dress has always been the ‘start of the show’...the one garment that every woman desires. Some may consider it to be a’ rule of fashion’. Vogue said the LBD would become ‘a sort of uniform for all women of taste’. Looking back through the years, we can clearly see a development of the LBD; going from drab to fab. From the Edwardian/Victorian era to the present day, it has always had a great symbolic meaning within the world of fashion. A bold, statement piece worn with great sophistication and elegance. Ranging from flouncy to fitted, from the famous Coco Chanel creation to the 1950’s ‘poodle skirt’, the scale of the LBD has altered each decade...
Edwardian/Victorian era
The LBD in this era was worn as a symbol of mourning. Whether it be replicating a widow, after being made famous by Queen Victoria in 1861 following the death of her beloved husband Albert. Following on from Albert’s death 17 years later, Lillie-Langtry (one of London’s socialites) did the unthinkable. After the death of her brother Viscount Ranalegh, she ignored socialite etiquette by wearing a black dress. At the time this was seen to be a highly shocking occurrence. In those 17 years between the death of Albert and the Viscount Ranalegh, the LBD saw a change. Going from Victoria’s typical bulky style to Lillie-Langtry’s much more fitted plum line dress. The scale had changed, becoming more wearable, stylish and highly desirable.
1920’s
The 1920’s saw the height of fashion. Fashion began to thrive, becoming even more desirable, glamorous and attentive to detail. Great influences began to appear, such as the great Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. Chanel designed a version of the LBD, a very ‘high fashion’ piece of clothing. Almost instantly recognised by American Vogue as quoted; ‘as the ford of dresses, much like Henry Ford’s Model – T car’. Becoming an instant hit with the public for its fashion forward style. Available in one colour, black. Known for its bold character, dominating the fashion world of the 1920’s.
1930’s – 1940’s
Hollywood began to come on the scene. The many famous faces of Hollywood began to wow the viewing audience, portraying a selection of high fashion gowns. Highly accessorized, glitzy dresses defining the true meaning of Hollywood. In the late 1940’s Christian Dior launched a new range, the ‘New Look’ collection. Another change to the feminine silhouette, using lots of fabric. Both long, flowing and fitted. Showing a very upper class ‘Hollywood’ look.
1950’s
When you say the 1950’s, straight away such idols as Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield spring to mind. Such a magnificent influence for women all over the world for continuing to show the Hollywood look throughout the decade! After the war time rationing had ended, designers let their creativity flow using as much fabric as they wished to create fuller designs. Sexual conservatism returned the LBD to its uniform roots, also showing it to be a symbol of a dangerous women. Although the ‘pencil’ skirt was still considered to be favoured for its figure-hugging shape and enhancing qualities.
1960’s
The 1960’s saw a large change in Fashion! Going from rebellion to great sophistication. 60’s fashion has had a great impact, even on fashion to the present day. From Mod madness to gracious glamour, it was a turning point in the fashion world. Famously in 1961 came the release of the blockbuster ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s ‘starring the Hollywood idol Audrey Hepburn as ‘Holly Golightly’. The dress was so desirable, every elegant woman wanted it. Especially designed for Audrey Hepburn by Hubert de Givenchy. In contrast, the early 60’s saw the introduction of the ‘mini dress’. The Mod generation had adapted the hemline making the dress excessively shorter. Adding cut-outs and slits in the bodice/skirt. Different materials were used to create various looks, either very sheer fabrics, netting or tulle.
1970’s
The 1970’s saw the little black dress return to a looser, longer style, known as the maxi dress. Designers like Bill Blass and Ossie Clark designed such a dress for both comfort and extreme style. The maxi dress caressed the body much like the dresses of 1895. Elegantly shaped, smoothed over the hips gradually widening at the hemline. Reworking the past has been very ‘hot’ in the recent world of fashion. Last year (spring/summer 2010) maxi dresses were the ‘it’ item of clothing. From casual patterned to extremely elegant, the maxi dress has made the ultimate comeback and it’s here to stay. Also maxi dresses are making a comeback this year, predicted to be again the hot item for spring/summer 2011!
1980’s
In the 1980’s the little black dress saw another era, another change. As the 80’s is famously known for its shoulder pads, frills, bold, incessant style, this look was continued into the little black dress. With televisual influences such as ‘Dynasty’ and ‘Dallas’, balloon sleeves, frills, big shoulder pads and taffeta were added to the LBD. Key looks were adopted in the 1980’s such as; new romantic, dancewear, valley girl and power dressing. This meant the LBD came in a variety of shape and form but still remained its true black. Knitted designs were created for power dressing/business wear which put the LBD back in Vogue.
1990’s
The 1990’s known for its musical influences (pop groups) and outrageous outfits such as Geri Halliwell’s famous ‘Union Jack’ dress. Continuing on from the 1980’s with the bold styles, though loosing the frills. A more grungy approach was formed. A true icon of the 90’s was Diana, Princess of Wales. Known for her grace, elegance and loved by all people around the world. In 1993, Diana wore a Christina Stambolian LBD whilst attending a function at the Serpentine Gallery. This was at the same time when Prince Charles confessed to adultery. Diana remaining strong, looking strong and extremely tasteful defining the sumptuousness of the LBD. 1994 saw the launch of Liz Hurley’s career after appearing at the ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral’ premiere. She arrived wearing a black Versace dress dubbed by the media as‘that dress’. In comparison, the 1990’s also saw a different approach tying in with the ‘grunge’ look. Combat boots/sandals combined with the little black dress made a bold fashion statement. People of the 90’s preferred colour therefore the LBD saw a decline. Though it made a triumphant comeback at the turn of the century. Sex and the city was first broadcast in the late 90’s showing women of power. 4 women each wearing a differently styled little black dress. People all over the world seeing these women and the clothes they wore making them fashion idols. Once again becoming on trend.
